As the autumn and winter months settle in, the beauty world inevitably pivots toward a more dramatic aesthetic. For many, the drop in temperature signals the official commencement of sultry-eye-makeup season—a time to embrace a heavily lined, deeply defined, and smoked-out look that projects a sense of chic elegance, elevation, and quiet power. Yet, according to top industry professionals, achieving this sophisticated vibe requires departing from conventional wisdom.
Ash K. Holm, a resident editor for Who What Wear, acclaimed celebrity makeup artist, educator, and co-founder of the luxury medspa Dripology, has observed a recurring misstep that many beauty enthusiasts make when attempting to master the classic smoky eye. According to Holm, the most common error is applying the absolute darkest color all over the eyelid. Instead, the expert’s professional trick is to execute the complete opposite approach.
Holm’s primary responsibility as a makeup artist for high-profile clients is to utilize cosmetics to enhance the natural geometry of the eyes. Achieving this objective precludes overwhelming the ocular area with heavy, opaque dark shades. Instead, Holm advocates for applying deep pigments sparingly and with absolute precision to curate a seamless, flattering effect.
The technique relies entirely on constructing a deliberate light-to-dark color gradient, a methodology Holm refers to as "eyemaxxing." By creating an ombré effect that encompasses the eye shadow, eyeliner, and even the mascara, the application keeps softer tones concentrated toward the inner corners of the eyes while gradually deepening the intensity as the product reaches the outer corners. This strategic placement ensures that the wearer still achieves a sultry, smoky finish without the burden of surrounding the entire eye in an enclosed ring of heavy pigment.
While a classic black look remains popular, Holm frequently turns to one of the season’s premier color stories for fall: a rich, dimensional chocolate brown. Utilizing this sophisticated palette allows for a softer yet equally powerful aesthetic that feels modern and wearable. To help beauty enthusiasts replicate this red-carpet technique at home, Holm has outlined five foundational principles for building the ultimate dimensional smoky eye.
The process begins by selecting a versatile product that offers multi-functional benefits, starting the application with a long-wearing cream shadow. Holm uses the Makeup by Mario Longwear Cream Eyeshadow in the shade Chestnut, applying it with a specialized tool like the Rèphr 00 Eyeshadow Brush. The cream formula in Chestnut delivers an immediate wash of chocolate warmth while simultaneously laying down an ideal, tacky base for the powder shadows that will be layered on top later. This single preparatory step instantly infuses the eye area with greater richness and architectural dimension.
Following the cream base, the next phase involves establishing a foundational template for the eyeliner using powdered shadow. Rather than jumping straight into liquid or pencil liners, Holm maps out the overall shape of the eye using the N3 shade from the Natasha Denona Eye Sculpt Texture & Tone Palette. Applying the product with the Rèphr 02 Eyeshadow Brush ensures that the softer, lighter tones remain near the inner portion of the eye before gradually intensifying toward the outer edge. To place shadow precisely between the lashes and along the upper lash line, Holm switches to the Rèphr 03 Eyeshadow Brush, while the Tanielle Jai 7 Detailed Blender Brush is deployed to gently smudge and diffuse color along the lower lash line without introducing harsh lines.
This approach mirrors the principles of facial contouring, mapping out a progression from light to dark, moving from the inside outward. Rather than encircling the entire eye with a single monochromatic deep shade, this intentional gradient generates structural depth while visually elongating the eye shape.
When it comes to framing the eyes with definition, Holm advises against relying exclusively on a single eyeliner pencil. Instead, the artist utilizes a hybrid technique by tightlining both the upper and lower waterlines with MAC Eye Kohl in Costa Riche—a rich chocolate brown—beginning at the inner corner and extending approximately halfway across. From there, the application transitions seamlessly into the YSL Lines Liberated Eyeliner in Black along the outer half of the eye. The transition must be executed with such precision that it is nearly impossible to detect where the brown pigment concludes and the black begins. This dual-liner method marries the intensity and sultriness of black liner with the approachable softness and dimension of brown.
To refine the liner and eliminate any stark demarcations, Holm employs a clever trick using leftover pigment on the brushes. If a slightly higher level of intensity is desired, the black liner can be drawn marginally above the outer lash line and buffed out before it fully sets. Crucially, rather than immediately loading the brush with fresh shadow, the artist utilizes whatever residual brown and black pigment remains on the Rèphr 03 and Tanielle Jai blender brushes from the initial mapping phase. Working this leftover product directly over the pencil lines softens and diffuses the edges, successfully setting the pencil while melting the eyeliner and shadow together into a lived-in, cohesive finish rather than separate, disjointed layers.
The final flourish of the routine extends the gradient concept to an unexpected place: the lashes. Continuing the ombré philosophy established with the shadow and eyeliner, Holm applies Thrive Causemetics Liquid Lash Extensions Tubing Mascara in Elena—a softer brown shade—to the inner lashes before transitioning to Lancôme Lash Idôle Flutter Extension Lengthening Mascara in Black on the outer lashes. Though subtle, this final adjustment pulls the entire aesthetic together. The brown maintains the softness of the inner eye, while the black provides striking definition and lift at the outer corner.
Ultimately, when the shadow, eyeliner, and mascara all harmonize in a deliberate progression from light to dark, they cooperate to produce an elongated, highly dimensional look. The core takeaway from the technique is that a successful smoky eye does not necessitate heavy black makeup saturating the entire eye area. Through careful gradation, starting soft at the inner corner and building depth outward across every product category, anyone can achieve a polished, professional finish that enhances their natural features.